🧼 SoapIntermediate

Hemp Seed Oil Soap Recipe

Make nourishing hemp seed oil soap rich in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Cold-process soap recipe perfect for sensitive, dry skin.

45 minutes active time + 4-6 weeks curing 24 bars (5 oz each)
Makes:
bars
Units:

Ingredients

Oils & Butters (total: 50 oz / 1417g)

  • 20.0 ozOlive Oil (40%)
  • 15.0 ozCoconut Oil (30%)
  • 10.0 ozHemp Seed Oil (20%)
  • 5.00 ozShea Butter (10%)

Lye Solution

  • 6.70 ozSodium Hydroxide (NaOH/lye)
  • 15.0 ozDistilled Water

Additives (Optional)

  • 0.50 ozMica powder or natural colorant (optional)
  • 0.80 ozEssential oil blend: lavender & chamomile (fragrance)
  • 1.00 tspDried chamomile flowers or hemp leaf (for visual appeal)

Hemp Seed Oil Soap

Hemp seed oil is renowned for its exceptional nutritional profile, containing omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids in an ideal 3:1 ratio for skin health. This cold-process soap creates a creamy, luxurious lather while providing superior moisturizing benefits. Hemp oil is particularly effective for eczema-prone, sensitive, and mature skin types. The resulting bars are gentle yet effective, leaving skin soft, hydrated, and nourished without irritation.

Ingredients

Oils & Butters (total: 50 oz / 1417g)

  • 20 oz (567g) Olive Oil (40%)
  • 15 oz (425g) Coconut Oil (30%)
  • 10 oz (284g) Hemp Seed Oil (20%)
  • 5 oz (142g) Shea Butter (10%)

Lye Solution

  • 6.7 oz (190g) Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH/lye)
  • 15 oz (425g) Distilled Water

Additives (Optional)

  • 0.5 oz (14g) Mica powder or natural colorant (optional)
  • 0.8 oz (23g) Essential oil blend: lavender & chamomile (fragrance)
  • 1.0 tsp (5ml) Dried chamomile flowers or hemp leaf (for visual appeal)

Equipment Needed

  • Stainless steel soap mold (cavity, silicone, or wood lined)
  • Digital scale accurate to 0.1 oz
  • Two stainless steel or glass bowls
  • Immersion blender (stick blender)
  • Soap thermometer (preferably dial)
  • Protective gear: safety glasses, nitrile gloves, long sleeves
  • Plastic spatulas and mixing spoons
  • Measuring cups for liquids
  • Distilled water source
  • Newspapers or towels for workspace

Instructions

Step 1: Safety First and Setup

Lay down protective covering on your work surface. Put on all safety equipment including glasses and gloves before handling lye. Ensure excellent ventilation. Gather all ingredients and equipment within arm's reach. Have your workspace organized to prevent accidents. Keep vinegar (5% acidity) nearby as a lye neutralizer in case of spills.

Step 2: Prepare Your Mold

If using a silicone mold, ensure it's thoroughly clean and dry. For cavity molds, line with parchment paper leaving overhang for easy removal. Place mold on a stable, level surface where it won't be disturbed. For the hemp soap, a lined wooden mold or standard 2-lb silicone mold works perfectly. You can also use a loaf mold for easier cutting into uniform bars.

Step 3: Measure and Combine Oils

Weigh all oils and butters accurately on your digital scale. Combine olive oil, coconut oil, hemp seed oil, and shea butter in your primary mixing bowl. Stir to combine, ensuring the shea butter is fully dissolved and integrated. The oils should appear as one unified mixture with no visible separation.

Step 4: Mix Your Lye Solution

In a separate heat-safe glass or stainless steel bowl, slowly add lye to distilled water while stirring constantly. Always add lye to water, never water to lye. Stir carefully for 1-2 minutes until the lye is completely dissolved. The solution will become hot (up to 200°F/93°C). Let it cool to between 90-110°F (32-43°C) before proceeding.

Step 5: Heat Your Oils

Gently warm your oil mixture to 85-110°F (29-43°C) using a water bath or careful microwave heating in 30-second intervals. Use your soap thermometer to monitor temperature. The oils and lye solution should be within 10 degrees of each other for best results. A temperature range of 95-105°F works exceptionally well.

Step 6: Combine Lye and Oils

Once both are in the proper temperature range, slowly pour the cooled lye solution into the oils while stirring with your spatula. Pour in a thin stream, stirring constantly and deliberately. This mixing phase is crucial for proper saponification and should take 3-5 minutes of careful hand-stirring.

Step 7: Use Your Immersion Blender

Insert the immersion blender into the mixture and pulse rather than continuously blend. Alternate between pulsing the blender and hand-stirring with a spatula. This prevents excessive air incorporation and heat generation. Continue blending and stirring for 8-10 minutes until the mixture reaches "trace" - a pudding-like consistency where drips leave a temporary trail on the surface.

Step 8: Add Optional Colorants and Scent

Once trace is achieved, add your essential oil blend (lavender and chamomile work beautifully with hemp). Stir thoroughly to disperse scent evenly. If using mica or natural colorants, mix them with a small amount of oil first to create a slurry, then incorporate. Add dried flowers or hemp leaf pieces if desired for visual interest and rustic appeal.

Step 9: Pour Into Mold

Working quickly but carefully, pour the soap mixture into your prepared mold. Tap the mold gently on the work surface to release air bubbles and help the soap settle. Smooth the top with a spatula or the back of a spoon. The soap should fill the mold evenly without spilling over. If using individual cavity molds, fill each cavity carefully to the top.

Step 10: Insulation Phase

Wrap your filled mold with towels, blankets, or cardboard to insulate it. This helps maintain the heat generated by saponification and improves gel phase penetration. Place in a warm location away from drafts and direct sunlight. Do not move or disturb the mold during this 24-48 hour period.

Step 11: Unmolding

After 24-48 hours, the soap should have hardened enough to unmold safely. If using a lined mold, gently pull the parchment paper to release the soap block. If the soap is still soft, wait another 12 hours. For cavity molds, flex gently and pop soap bars out. The soap should be firm but still cutting into individual bars will be challenging - don't rush this step.

Step 12: Cutting and Curing

Once fully released from the mold, use a sharp soap cutter, wire, or serrated knife to cut into uniform bars. Each bar should be approximately 2 inches wide by 3 inches long by 1.5 inches thick for optimal sizing. Arrange bars on paper towels, parchment paper, or wooden boards in a well-ventilated area. Leave space between bars for air circulation.

Step 13: Cure Process

Cure your soap for 4-6 weeks in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight. Rotate bars occasionally and turn them to ensure even air exposure on all sides. After 2-3 weeks, hardness will significantly improve. By week 6, the soap will be fully cured with optimal hardness and will last longer in the shower. The water content will have evaporated, creating superior bars.

Tips for Success

  • Hemp oil is sensitive: Hemp oil contains polyunsaturated fats that can go rancid. Store your finished hemp soap in a cool, dark place to preserve its benefits and prevent oxidation of the precious oils. Quality hemp oil sourced from reputable suppliers will have a longer shelf life and deliver superior omega-3 and omega-6 benefits.
  • Temperature is crucial: Keeping your oils and lye solution within 10 degrees of each other ensures smooth tracing and even saponification. Too cold and it will take forever; too hot and you risk overheating. Digital thermometers are essential for accurate temperature monitoring throughout the entire process.
  • Don't skip the curing time: While the soap is technically usable after 24 hours, the 4-6 week cure allows the pH to drop to a gentler level on skin and makes the bars significantly harder and longer-lasting. Extended curing (8-12 weeks) creates exceptional hardness and longevity.
  • Trace timing matters: Don't remove soap from the blender too early, but also avoid over-tracing which creates a thick, difficult-to-pour mixture. Light trace gives the best mold-filling experience. Learn to recognize the subtle changes in texture and thickness as you blend.
  • Hemp leaf visual: If adding dried hemp leaves for aesthetic appeal, use sustainably sourced ornamental hemp leaf that has no psychoactive properties. This adds visual interest without affecting the soap's properties. Press leaves into the surface just after pouring for best visual appeal.
  • Lye solutions and hemp oil: Hemp oil's delicate nature means precise lye calculations are essential. Use a soap calculator online to verify your recipe before making a large batch if you're modifying the recipe.
  • Fragrance pairing: While lavender and chamomile are specified in this recipe, hemp soap also pairs beautifully with eucalyptus, peppermint, or citrus essential oils. The earthy nature of hemp complements herbal and fresh botanical scents.

Variations

  • Enhanced Moisturizing: Replace 2 oz of olive oil with avocado oil for additional skin-conditioning benefits and a creamier lather ideal for very dry skin types.
  • Herbal Luxury: Add 1 tablespoon of finely ground dried chamomile flowers and substitute the essential oil blend with 0.8 oz of lavender essential oil combined with 0.2 oz of tea tree oil for additional antibacterial properties.
  • Spa Experience: Include 2 tablespoons of dried ground oatmeal to create a gentle exfoliating bar, combining hemp's nourishment with physical exfoliation that doesn't irritate sensitive skin.

Cost Breakdown

IngredientAmountEst. Cost
Olive Oil20.0 oz (567g)$2.40
Coconut Oil15.0 oz (425g)$2.25
Hemp Seed Oil10.0 oz (284g)$8.50
Shea Butter5.0 oz (142g)$3.75
Sodium Hydroxide6.7 oz (190g)$1.50
Essential Oils0.8 oz (23g)$2.80
Distilled Water15.0 oz (425g)$0.50
Colorants/Additivesvaries$1.00

Total Cost: $22.70Estimated Cost per Bar: $0.95

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Soap Won't Trace

If your soap mixture isn't reaching trace after 15 minutes of blending, temperature is likely the culprit. Soap made with high proportions of conditioning oils like hemp traces more slowly than standard recipes. Ensure both your oils and lye solution are within the proper temperature range (95-105°F is ideal). If temperature is correct, continue blending - hemp soap can take 12-15 minutes of blending to reach trace.

Soap Separated or Looks Curdled

Don't panic if your soap looks separated or curdled - this is normal in some batches, especially when using delicate oils like hemp. Continue the insulation and curing process. The soap will likely still turn out fine. If you're concerned, you can attempt gentle reheating in a double boiler to encourage saponification to complete, but this is usually unnecessary.

Soft Bars After Curing

If your bars remain soft after 6 weeks of curing, extend the cure to 8-12 weeks. High-hemp-oil batches sometimes take longer to reach optimal hardness. Alternatively, adjust your next batch by reducing hemp oil slightly and increasing coconut oil for better hardness while maintaining most of the conditioning benefits.

Rancid or Off Smell During Curing

Hemp oil oxidation can occasionally create an off smell during curing. This is rare with quality oils but possible with older hemp oil. Store finished soap in cool conditions (below 70°F) to prevent this. If oxidation occurs, the soap is still safe but the benefits are reduced.

Oily Residue on Finished Bars

Sometimes excess oil accumulates on the surface of hemp soap. This is actually a sign the soap is extra conditioning but indicates slight over-fatting. You can wipe bars with a clean cloth, or adjust your next batch by reducing hemp oil by 1 oz and increasing olive oil to compensate.

Storage and Shelf Life

Hemp seed oil soap is best stored in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight and heat. Ideal storage temperature is 50-70°F. The soap will remain effective for 12-18 months under proper storage conditions. Unlike commercial soaps that may degrade in quality, naturally made hemp soap actually improves slightly over time as water content continues to evaporate. Store in breathable packaging when possible - allowing continuing air circulation during extended storage.

Science Behind Hemp Oil in Soap

Hemp seed oil's three-to-one omega-3 to omega-6 ratio is nearly identical to the ratio found in human skin. This similarity means hemp oil is exceptionally bioavailable to skin - your skin recognizes and readily absorbs these nutrients. During saponification, the oils don't completely lose their nutritional profile; some benefits remain in the finished soap. This is why curing time matters - longer curing allows the fatty acid profile to stabilize and become available to skin at higher levels.

The natural vitamin E and antioxidants present in quality hemp oil provide additional benefits beyond simple moisturization. These compounds help protect skin from environmental damage and support the skin barrier. For eczema and sensitive skin sufferers, this extra antioxidant protection combined with exceptional moisturization makes hemp soap particularly valuable.


Storage Note: Store finished hemp seed oil soap in a cool, dark place (50-70°F ideal) to prevent oxidation of the beneficial hemp oil. Use within 12 months for maximum efficacy of the hemp oil benefits. Hemp soap is best used within one year for maximum omega fatty acid availability to skin.

Sustainability Note: Hemp is one of the most sustainable crops available. Hemp requires minimal water, no pesticides, and regenerates soil while growing. By using hemp seed oil in soap, you're supporting sustainable agriculture and environmentally responsible personal care choices.

Skin Type Guide: This recipe is excellent for sensitive, dry, eczema-prone, and mature skin. If you have oily skin, reduce hemp oil to 5 oz and increase coconut oil to 20 oz to maintain cleansing action. For combination skin, this recipe as written provides excellent balance between cleansing and conditioning.

Deep Dive: Hemp Oil Biochemistry

Hemp seed oil's exceptional benefits derive from its precise fatty acid composition. The 3:1 ratio of omega-3 to omega-6 fatty acids matches the optimal ratio for human skin health. These polyunsaturated fats regulate skin barrier function, reduce inflammation, and support skin cell regeneration at the molecular level.

Alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3) comprises approximately 20% of hemp seed oil. This essential fatty acid must be obtained from external sources - the body cannot synthesize it. When applied topically in hemp soap, alpha-linolenic acid integrates into the skin's lipid barrier, strengthening this crucial protective layer. For eczema sufferers, this barrier strengthening directly addresses the compromised barrier function that causes their condition.

Linoleic acid (omega-6) comprises approximately 55% of hemp seed oil. This polyunsaturated fat is crucial for maintaining skin's moisture content and elasticity. In combination with alpha-linolenic acid, linoleic acid creates optimal skin conditioning that leaves skin feeling soft, supple, and healthy rather than dry or overly moisturized.

Beyond fatty acids, hemp seed oil contains phytosterols, tocopherols (vitamin E), and phenolic compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. These compounds protect skin from free radical damage and environmental stress. During soap making, some of these beneficial compounds survive saponification, remaining available to skin after cleansing.

Cold Process Advantage for Hemp Oil

Cold process soap making is superior for oil-rich formulations like hemp. The process avoids high heat that could oxidize or damage delicate polyunsaturated fats. Some of the heat-sensitive compounds in hemp oil survive cold process but would be destroyed by hot process methods. This preservation of beneficial compounds is why cold process hemp soap delivers better results than hot process versions.

The 4-6 week curing period allows continued stabilization of unsaponified oils and beneficial compounds. Over time, the pH naturally drops to optimal levels (around 9-10) where skin irritation is minimized and the fatty acid profile becomes most bioavailable to skin.

Professional Application Guidance

Share this information with customers to maximize satisfaction and results:

  • Use 2-3 times weekly for eczema-prone or very sensitive skin
  • Use daily for maintenance and prevention in healthy skin
  • Store in cool location to prevent rancidity
  • Works best when skin is slightly damp for maximum absorption
  • Beneficial effects increase over 2-4 weeks of consistent use
  • Compatible with additional moisturizers if skin remains dry after transition period

Hemp Seed Oil Sourcing and Quality Assurance

High-quality hemp seed oil comes from reputable suppliers who turn over inventory rapidly. Unlike oils that improve with age, hemp seed oil degrades over time as polyunsaturated fats oxidize. Ensure your supplier dates their products and you're receiving fresh oil, not aged stock.

Cold-pressed, unrefined hemp seed oil retains more beneficial compounds than refined versions. The distinctive green color and nutty aroma indicate proper processing. Pale, odorless hemp oil has likely been refined and bleached, losing many beneficial compounds.

Verify your hemp oil source certifies absence of herbicides and pesticides. Industrial hemp can accumulate heavy metals from soil - quality suppliers test for contaminants. Reputable hemp oil suppliers provide third-party testing certificates confirming purity and potency.

Scaling Production

Hemp oil's cost means soap batches using hemp command premium pricing. As your business grows, negotiate directly with bulk suppliers for better pricing on hemp oil. Once your monthly hemp soap production exceeds 100+ bars, bulk purchasing becomes economically attractive.

Consider creating a signature hemp soap product as your flagship offering. The superior quality, distinctive benefits, and premium pricing potential make hemp soap ideal for business positioning and brand building.