Lots of Lather Cold Process Soap Recipe

This high-lather soap recipe features castor oil as a star ingredient, known for producing thick, creamy, luxurious bubbles that last longer than standard soap bars. Perfect for those who love a rich, foamy lather in the shower or bath, this recipe maintains good cleansing power while maximizing bubble production. Castor oil also adds conditioning properties for softer skin.

Ingredients

Oils & Butters

• 18.0 oz (510g) olive oil
• 12.0 oz (340g) coconut oil
• 10.0 oz (284g) palm oil
• 8.0 oz (227g) castor oil (the secret to lather!)
• 6.0 oz (170g) palm kernel oil

Lye Solution

• 5.1 oz (145g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 12.0 oz (340g) distilled water

Additives (Optional)

• 0.65 oz (18g) fragrance oil or essential oil
• Mica or oxide colorants (0.5-1 tsp)
• Essential oils like peppermint or eucalyptus for energizing scent

Equipment Needed

• Digital scale accurate to 0.1 oz
• Two stainless steel pots
• Stainless steel or silicone spoon
• Stick blender (high-powered recommended)
• Thermometer (clip-on preferred)
• Soap mold (silicone loaf or wooden with parchment)
• Safety goggles and chemical-resistant gloves
• Heat gun or hair dryer (optional, for smoothing)
• Soap cutter or sharp serrated knife
• Vinegar (for cleanup)

Instructions

Step 1: Prepare Your Safety Equipment

Don this year's must-have soap-making accessories: safety goggles and chemical-resistant gloves. Set up your workspace with paper towels and vinegar nearby for any lye spills. Ensure proper ventilation, as sodium hydroxide releases fumes when mixed with water.

Step 2: Mix the Lye Solution

Pour 12 oz of distilled water into a heat-safe pot. Slowly sprinkle the 5.1 oz of sodium hydroxide into the water while stirring continuously with a stainless steel spoon. The solution will heat up rapidly, reaching 160-180°F. Let it cool to 100-110°F before proceeding. This cooling step prevents the lye from cooking your oils.

Step 3: Prepare All Oils

In a separate pot, combine:

• 18.0 oz (510g) olive oil
• 12.0 oz (340g) coconut oil
• 10.0 oz (284g) palm oil
• 8.0 oz (227g) castor oil
• 6.0 oz (170g) palm kernel oil

Stir gently to incorporate the castor oil evenly. The mixture may appear thick due to the castor oil's viscosity. Heat slowly to 100-110°F, stirring occasionally.

Step 4: Combine Ingredients at Proper Temperature

Once both solutions reach 100-110°F, slowly pour the cooled lye solution into the oils while stirring. This is the point where your soap-making magic begins. Keep stirring steadily for about one minute to ensure full incorporation.

Step 5: Stick Blend to Light Trace

Using your stick blender, pulse the mixture for 30 seconds on high. Stop and stir by hand for about 60 seconds. Continue this pattern until the mixture reaches light trace—the batter should resemble thin pudding with a slight trail visible when the blender is lifted.

Step 6: Add Fragrance and Color

At light trace, add your 0.65 oz of fragrance oil or essential oil blend. Mix thoroughly for about one minute using the stick blender on low speed. If using colorants, disperse them in a small amount of oil first to prevent streaking and discoloration.

Step 7: Pour Into Mold

Pour the soap mixture into your prepared mold. Use a spatula to smooth the top. For a smooth finish, you can lightly spray the top with rubbing alcohol or use a heat gun on low setting to remove any air bubbles.

Step 8: Insulate for Gel Phase

Wrap the mold with blankets or a towel to insulate it and encourage gel phase. This creates a clear, even color and improves the final soap appearance. Some soapmakers prefer a hot water bath for additional heat.

Step 9: Wait 24-48 Hours

Leave the soap undisturbed in the insulated mold for 24-48 hours. The soap will go through its exothermic reaction, which is completely normal and expected. You may see the soap expand slightly and develop a gelatinous center—this is gel phase and indicates successful saponification.

Step 10: Unmold the Soap

Once 24-48 hours have passed, carefully turn the mold over and remove the soap block. The soap should be firm enough to handle. If it's still soft, wait another 6-12 hours before unmolding.

Step 11: Cut Into Bars

Using a soap cutter or sharp serrated knife, cut the loaf into 24 equal bars. Clean your knife between cuts for cleaner edges. Each bar should be approximately 1.5 inches wide.

Step 12: Air Cure

Arrange bars on a well-ventilated rack with space between each one. Cure in a cool, dry location (60-75°F) away from direct sunlight for 4-6 weeks. During this time, excess moisture evaporates and the soap continues to harden.

Tips for Success

• Castor oil adds lather but can make soap trace quickly—be ready to pour soon after reaching trace
• Don't overheat the lye solution; let it cool completely before mixing with oils
• Use distilled or filtered water for the lye solution to ensure pure results
• If soap becomes too thick to pour, warm it gently (not above 120°F) while in the mold
• Test lather by rubbing a small piece under running water—you should see abundant bubbles
• Store cured soap in a cool, dry place for longest shelf life (up to 2 years)

Variations

• Luxury spa version: Add oatmeal, honey, and vanilla fragrance for a luxe feel
• Peppermint wake-up: Use peppermint essential oil and add dried peppermint leaves
• Rose garden: Add rose fragrance, dried rose petals, and pink mica for romantic appeal
• Unscented pure: Skip fragrance for a pure castile-style bar with maximum lather

Cost Breakdown

Estimated Cost per Bar: $0.51

Related Recipes

• Basic Cold Process Soap - Classic recipe with less lather
• Coconut Milk Soap - Creamy alternative with milk
• Coffee Exfoliating Soap - Add texture to your lather

Pro Tip: The more castor oil you use, the better the lather—but don't exceed 10% of your total oils, as too much castor oil can make soap soft or mushy. This recipe uses 8%, which provides luxurious lather while maintaining a firm, long-lasting bar.